So true about gourmands not being part of traditional perfumery. They really should be added. This is such an interesting and informative video Claire! ❤️❤️
I always find it a bit annoying when people label 'fruity' fragrances as 'juvenile' ~ which happens a lot! They smell something fruity/sweet and associate it with kids and teens immediately. Personally, I eat a lot of fruits and berries (I know berries are fruit too, but still like to mention them separately! lol) ~ if I had to eat only one category of foods for a whole year, I'd pick FRUIT without hesitation. I just love all fruit and berries; the way they taste, the way the look, the way they smell.... So *of course* that's reflected in my perfume preferences too! Why wouldn't it be?? I'm 41 so far from being a teenager or a child, but YES I still prefer fruity/sweet smells. I just don't understand the AGEISM that exists even in the perfume world! Why are adults/older people not 'allowed' to prefer and enjoy sweetness ??
Yes I don't get it either, to me a good and realistic fruity fragrance is hard to achieve and a very special and delicious thing. I love to wear fruity fragrances for the same reason as you, I adore eating berries especially 😊 i think along with the term oriental, judgements on masculine Vs feminine fragrances, describing fragrances as making you smell like that girl or a rich auntie or a boss... 🤣 Ageism comments really also get to me. Anyone any age or gender can enjoy any fragrance for sure. Have a fab Sunday 🥰
Happy Saturday Dr. Claire. Another great lesson. I think of the wheel as just a springboard with loads of sub-categories embedded in them. I definitely lean towards Amber and woods but I can appreciate gourmands and some florals. I like keeping my options open because there could always be a gem hidden in a category and I’d hate to miss something.
Thank you 🥰 Yes for sure! I agree, I just try everything 🤣 I try to have an open mind now, because so many times I've been wrong and loved something that on paper, I should really not enjoy. I agree that the wheel is just a way of organising the types to make it easier to see the breadth of the fragrance world, but yes, it doesn't cover everything and I find it very subjective as to where each fragrance sits exactly! I hope you have a fab Sunday 🥰
It's a useful tool, but needs to be adjusted/updated. In addition to the Gourmands I feel the animalic, dried, smoked, aged, and indolic scents could also do with a category.
Yes, there's certainly some categories that could encompass a bit of that, but I do think it either needs to be more explicitly explained what fits where or new categories specifically created. Thanks for watching 🥰
Maybe, if the fragrance wheel gets edited, “spices” could become a category? I think Gourmands (probably my favorite) could go in there. Under the fresh category, I’d place “soapy/ laundry” in there. Love from NJ USA.
Yes! I also felt like the laundry clean ones were a bit lacking... I think it does need an update and perhaps more focus on the more modern styles and names rather than the traditional ones. Have a fab Sunday 🥰
Hi Claire, I have always loved perfumes but have only recently started building a proper collection. In doing so I have started watching sooooooo many perfume RUclipsrs to get their views and reviews. I came across your channel a couple of weeks ago and have been so impressed!! You are the best by far!! I am gradually working my way through your amazing and informative videos. I watch at least one per day. The way you explain everything and even the tone of your voice makes you very watchable. You could work in tv broadcasting!! Thanks for teaching me so much!! ❤🥰😘😍
Oh thank you! That's really lovely of you to write that. I am a new university lecturer and I feel like practising with YT videos really helped my presentation skills and the way I organise and frame information for my job. I'm happy that you are enjoying fragrance, it's a whole other world isn't it?! 🥰
Things evolve and adding gourmand to the wheel is a good idea. Gourmand perfumes are popular now. I don't care for out-and-out gourmand fragrances, especially the sweet ones, but I don't mind a bit of a gourmand scent in a perfume. Great video. I'm learning so much from watching yours. Thank you. You also talk about different perfumes than others who seem to talk about the same ones.
Same really. I'm not big into gourmands, but a nice subtle gourmand twist on a fragrance is sometimes beautiful. Thank you! I'm really happy that you enjoy my videos! I just do this for fun, not for affiliate income etc, I don't ever want this to be more than a fun hobby that I share my love for, so I guess that might be why I talk about slightly different things. ☺️ Thanks for watching 🥰
Oooh it’s fun to think about what my wheel looks like! I’ve realised this year that I’m really fond of purple florals - I knew I loved violets but I really like lilac and wisteria a lot too. Iris and heliotrope seem to pop up in lots of things I like too! I’m mainly fresh, clean and fruity really (oi oi!) but I think I’ve at least got on finger in each slice of the pie though!
Yes me too! I never realised how much I love lilac, heliotrope and violets until about a year into RUclips... It all clicked! Yes, I think I'd most associate clean florals with you if I had to guess. Thanks for watching ❤️
My perfume taste is so eclectic. Like my music taste. Although I can see a leaning towards ambers. But I think it’s genuinely because I’m one of those odd people that adores autumn and winter and my perfumes kind of celebrate these seasons. Great vid 🌻🙏🏽
Thank you! I think my scent preferences also suit autumn winter... I find the light summery ones a bit dull after a time but I do love summer still 🤷♀️ I love the sunshine and warmth. Thanks for watching 🥰
As a musician I was always looking for my "lucky scent" to wear at my concerts or performances. They are all special to me and I love them, but I´m now, thanks to you Clair starting to like soft florals and soft ambers! Finding perfumes outside my normal box has brought me so much joy during normal days, just hanging around at home, doing some practicing on my baby grand or even relaxing with a good book. Wonderful to scent my whole day in different styles.
Gosh, that must be a very interesting, exciting and perhaps also sometimes exhausting career! Yes, I love different 'fumes for different moods too 😂 I really love the softer ones for being around the house. I find them relaxing. 🥰
This was definitely helpful! Last night I decided to categorize my collection and I'm definitely an Amber/Floral lover. I have just one Aromatic and you are so right. The marine notes have always bothered me and I didn't know why until I watched this. I tend to avoid layering for some reason but I may give it a try now. Thank you Claire. I always learn from you.
Thank you! ❤️ I'm really happy that you found this useful. I think I am also very much amber/floral too, with a touch of woody. I have some aromatic and citrus fragrances too but they are rarely loves.
I definitely love a wide variety of categories but the mossy woods is a category that I can’t get to feel like “me”. Maybe one day, maybe not 🤷🏽♀️ I absolutely think it’s great for getting a general idea of what scents traditionally mix well 😊 Thanks for this video!
Thank you! I also categorise my fragrances to organise them, I find it makes choosing quicker and easier. I primarily divide them by overall feel rather than family as here, but it's a similar idea. Thanks for watching 🥰
Hey Claire. I feel like I gravitate more towards the fresh fragrances with some fruit just because I’m preferring lighter scents right now. It would be nice if they updated the wheel since fragrances have changed so much. I didn’t even know there was a wheel at first. This was a great video
Thank you! Yes I think it certainly needs an overhaul. I know there are a few different versions, so perhaps an update has been done but not well publicised? Me too, I have been enjoying the lighter florals of late. Thanks for watching and have a lovely weekend 🥰
Knowledgable and quite comprehensive explanations and examples. This video demands to be seen several times to learn everything that was explained. Excellent stuff! Well done!
Hi Claire, love you brought this up in this video, as well that you added examples for the categories listed. I am into florals, floral woody, as well ambery and freshy. 🌺🌺
Hello beautiful Claire! I also like different categories of the fragrance wheel and I also enjoy them combined, probably even more. I find straight up florals a little boring and I tend to tire of them quickly
Roses, red berries, oud, sandalwood, patchouli, and moss are some of my favorite notes. Thinking of them in terms of a fragrance wheel is really interesting
Thank you! Yes, I guess those notes would make you think of a few overlapping categories. For me fruity is very broad, I'm not sure the fragrance wheel today really entirely reflects the focus and diversity of modern perfumery. Thanks for watching 🥰
Good Morning Claire 🤗 I agree!!! They missed a slice of our favorite gourmands lol 😊😉 I appreciate the wheel it gives an overall idea of a scent profile although there are times that I’m a bit confused as to what they are displaying and what I’m smelling 🤣
Yes, I found it quite hard to categorise fragrances, it's very subjective sometimes. I think one fragrance could often fit multiple categories. Thanks for watching ❤️
Thank you! Yep absolutely, if someone says they hate florals, I always suggest they try something with heliotrope or violet first! Those are underused in the designer perfume world especially. Also lilac and linden blossom but those are less friendly. Thanks for watching 🥰
Ooh I love this topic. It’s funny, you don’t see a wheel or hear from salespeople in department stores talk about it but almost every indie fragrance designer/creator does. I’m such a fan girl for Mandy Aftel and her natural perfumery (tempted to put natural in quotes bc it’s all chemical compounds) and she’s developed her own wheel to help budding perfumers build their scent compositions. Her wheel includes a gourmand and animallic sections placed between floral and fresh. I don’t personally look at it much except when researching.
Hi Jackie! I was reading about the wheel and apparently sales assistants were trained to try to find fragrances that are of a similar category to those that customers already use, but yeah, I agree with you, you never see these fragrance wheel diagrams in mainstream shops or hear it mentioned... Maybe the idea faded from the designer world? I have seen the wheel mentioned more by creators than retailers. I agree perfumers and even people interested in aromatherapy, candle making, soap making etc seem to be very familiar with the wheel. Mandy Aftel's version of the wheel sounds much more appropriate for right now. I think definitely think the one here is missing several sections! Thanks for watching 🥰
Thanks for this video Claire.😀 Really glad tgo have a run through of the ''fragrance wheel''. You just proved what I already thought; I'm all over the place and love a bit of everything. Gourmands should definitely be in there at some point. A gradation of fruity and fruity florals maybe also. What about very musk forward fragrances? An update is needed...
Yes, i totally agree Cat, I struggled to put the powdery and musky ones in that weren't floral, it didn't feel like they belonged in woods or ambers. There are certainly a few sections missing here! Thanks for watching, I hope you have a great week. 🥰
Ohmygod, I learned so much - what amazing videos you make! Thank you! I'm rewatching and laughing at the part where it's theorized that most people really prefer/like just one area of the fragrance wheel. And you (like me) say that you actually like lots of areas, lol -- that's because we are addicted to fragrance and love trying everything! I think it's true that most people (the normal ones haha j/k) DO like one area the best. I certainly did before I became a fragrance addict 😆
🤣 I hadn't thought about it like that, but you are completely right, that one section theory is definitely for muggles isn't it not addicts? 🤣 I think the fragrance wheel is often used to help to train sales assistants so they are better placed to suggest fragrances that people might enjoy from what they currently own and like, so I guess that's part of where that theory comes from. Thanks for watching 🥰
Thank you for this framework. I recently completed a spreadsheet of my fragrances by notes, but didn't think to categorize them along the wheel. It will be interesting to do so and see what categories are missing or thin in my collection. Thanks!
Oh no problem 🙂 yes! I need to do that with mine! I recently made a spreadsheet to keep track too 🙂 I think you will naturally not love some categories more than others, but filming this, I noticed that I have a real lack of woody fragrances. Thanks for watching 🥰
Thank you for this very instructive introduction to the wheel. I'm going to investigate further 😀. (and congratulations on your French accent, as it's so rare among fragrance fans 😂). What book would you recommend that covers the wheel in the same way as you did in your video, with notes and examples (including men's fragrances)? Thanks Claire.
Thanks! My husband's a French teacher so perhaps that partially explains it. 😂 I actually don't have any books on fragrance so I can't recommend any. What I've learnt, I've learnt through discussing fragrance with others, including perfumers and other perfume obsessives, and also in the case of this video, referring to the Michael Edwards Perfume Wheel website and Wikipedia. Hope that helps!
Hello, Claire. I am reviewing my collection according to your explanations and I think that a very good example for amber florals is Joop Le bain. That is the best example I have for this category. A second example is Estee lauder Bronze Godess Eau Fraiche. The funny thing is that they smell quite different :)) they are in the same category (I think) but they are pretty different. I will continue reviwing my collection and come back if I find interesting facts :)
Yes! It's a strange way to think about things really. Very different smelling fragrances can be in the same category, you are right and I really think it would be difficult sometimes for two people to reach a consensus on where a particular fragrance belongs, it's very much a matter of opinion. Good luck 🥰
Clare you never cease to amaze me 🤩 my taste is still all Over the place but I have noticed that I’m moving a little bit away from the floral and enjoying the more earthy smells but also loving fruity 🤷♀️at the end of the day what I reach for depends on my mood or state of mind ,time of year I think the fragrance wheel gives us a very loosely based idea of where the notes and ingredients Fall ( if that makes sense 🤷♀️ Hugs ❤
Yes I totally agree, it's just an idea of how different or similar.things are to each other. I personally found it quite hard to think about where my own fragrances should be positioned on it. I agree that what we reach for is often determined by seasons too 😊 Thanks for watching ❤️
I found this very interesting Claire. I'd never heard of the fragrance wheel and, thanks to your explanation and examples, I now know I have a fairly eclectic taste in perfumes 😊 The only longlasting citrus fragrances i have are Simone Andreoli's Malibu Party in the Bay (predominately lime and coconut) and Electric by Agent Provocateur (mainly lime and fig). Have a lovely weekend in this glorious sunshine ❤❤ edited to say i got a sample of Shay & Blue's Sicilian Limes after your S&B video - 🤮 straight up curry.
Hi Fiona, thank you! Oh I keep hearing about that party in the bay fragrance, I really want to try that one, do you think it smells like virgin island water? Is electric the one that Is meant to be a bit BR540 like? Yeah, I wouldn't recommend Shay and blue at all, I think it's just that brand is really not one for me and seemingly not for a lot of others too. I couldn't stand a few of the ones that I bought and really didn't love any of them, they felt like a disappointment and a waste of money. Thanks for watching as always ❤️
@@dr.claire.perfumeI've never smelt VIW but every review I've seen has said Party in the Bay is similar, but is cheaper and has incredible sillage and longevity. I have no idea if Electric is like BR540 I'm afraid. I doubt it from what I've heard about BR540 but I've not tried that one either! 🤷♀️
I am new to this field, but find perfumery extremely interesting and planning to take it up as my hobby and passion. Its so very involving. I love it. Your video was simply superb. Maybe what I exactly was looking for to know the categories. Thank you so much. I have subscribed and liked. Will start watching your videos one by one.
Same! I've been looking for a creator who breaks things down for me like I'm back in school -- perhaps elementary/primary school 😂 I'm really glad I found Dr. Claire 😊
The world of perfume and the aromas are addicting. If I could I'd spend all day learning about perfume and trying them out. I wonder what is going on with people like me?
My favourite style is woody. Dont mind a bit of floral or amber either. Violet, rose, pine, cedar, incense, ginger, I dont like fresh, shower gel, very sweet or citrus. I find a lot of them too generic.
Ooh I love incense! In fact, I really enjoy resins in general. I also struggle with citrus. I find a lot are absolutely jam-packed with ambroxan 🤦♀️ a great affordable one that I do really like though is Olfactive O Citrus. Thanks for watching 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfumeI tried Dolce & Gabanna Light Blue femme the other day I couldn't smell anything after 10 minutes. I recommend a fougere for you. Azzaro Pour Home L'eau. It's citrus orangey Lemon up top but dries down to a very light lavender soapy wood scent. It's pretty unisex id say so you could wear it. It's only about £12 in TJ Hughes.
I like fruit like apple and orange. Nothing very sweet though. I also want to try some green fragrances. I'm a bit of a newbie. I do have a nice fougere that I recommend to you. Azzaro Pour Homme L'eau. It's has citrus lemon top notes, heart notes of Lavender and Geranium and dries down to woody musk. It's a very light soapy woody fragrance. It's unisex id say so you could wear it. Cost me £12 in TJ Hughes.
I can't deal with Light Blue 🙊 the textured musk is a massive no for me. I know it's loved though. I had a flanker at one point (Love is Love) and I had to declutter it.
Hello Claire, I am so behind on my viewing. This was so informative (as usual). I like the idea of a fragrance wheel for perfume, they have them for wine tasting and for colour theory in art. It makes total sense to me. 😁 I'm with you on liking a variety of profiles from the wheel. I do have notes I struggle with, most people have something they don't enjoy. I think my most challenging segment is the green smells. I do line some, but many in that category can either come off masculine leaning to my nose or they are something I prefer to smell in nature rather than wear. I will say, the more I smell the more I am open to new things. It makes it more interesting! Thanks for another fantastic video! Take care! 💛😊✨
Hi Jenn 😊 I think there is huge crossover with smell, sight and taste, you are right, the wheels make total sense and are the same idea in each situation. Yes green is a struggle for me too in some forms. Especially when it's something dank and forest-like. Fresher, watery floral greens are sometimes nice though. Thanks for watching 🥰
I love all categories. My collection starts with fruity florals and it grows in every direction. Here is my selection for June, I wanted it to be oriental, bold and warm: Samsara, 34 boulevard Saint-Germain from Diptyque EDT and EDP, Fantosmia, The cobra and the canary, Obsession, L’air du désert marocain and Boucheron! Very different than my usual white florals!
Wow that's a very striking selection! I've been really enjoying trying lots of diptyque fragrances recently, I am trying to decide whether to get orphéon. I would absolutely love to try l'air du désert Marocain 😊 thanks for watching and sharing your current wears, it's interesting to hear what people are reaching for 🥰
Gourmand fragrances are my favourites, they aren't (yet) in the wheel, at second place I love amber florals and at third place I love the amber-fruity ones. I found so beautiful how you pronounce Kenzo Jungle L'Elephant, your french accent (L'Elephant) is pretty and perfect😍
Well it's probably not spot on, but my husband is a French, German and Spanish teacher who also speaks a little Italian and Polish so I've got a good resource to tap there! I did learn French and Latin though. Thanks for watching 🥰
@@VeritasVincitFragrancesVeritas that is even more amazing as I assume that's not even your job per se, it's just something that you've had to do as part of life 👌
yet another amazing informative video! my favourite fragrances are always the heavy warm resinous amber and spicy 80's style powerhouses with thick syrupy sweet gourmands a close second. even better when they overlap like in my ride or die pre-loreal angel. my least favourite are definitely citrus and fresh/watery perfumes with an exception of womanity which i adore when its a stinking hot day and it might not be totally appropriate to knock the people around me for six with a huge dose of ysl opium or dior poison! but each to their own :) xxx
Thank you! ❤️ Haha 😂 oh I really loved Womanity when I first got my bottle, I think towards the end it had changed a bit but I didn't repurchase and trying the reformulation. I love Angel for winter and I think I'm beginning to appreciate the big 80s fragrances more these days than I once did. It's interesting to see how tastes change the more than you try! I hope you have a fab weekend and thanks for watching ❤️
@@dr.claire.perfume well i recently risked it all and bought a new formulation bottle of womanity knowing full well how loreal have decimated angel and alien but to my pleasant surprise its not half bad! perhaps not *quite* as strong as the original but thankfully it hasn’t suffered half as much as angel and alien at loreal’s hands 😊 xxx
Oh thank you for letting me know, I've not really heard how it is from anyone else who tried both formulations, so that's useful. I think L'Oréal will discontinue Womanity soon, the only place I ever see a bottle is on the Mugler website...
@@dr.claire.perfume absolutely that's why i risked buying another bottle because it randomly appeared back on their uk website after months of it being out of stock with discontinuation rumours. it's only sold in 80ml and 100ml refill bottles and like you said only available online. i wouldn't be surprised if they discontinue aura too whilst they're at it. angel muse has been discontinued which is a huge shame but i think i'd rather them discontinue fragrances over these god awful reformulations they keep doing xxx
Me too, I agree, the reformulations are in general just awful. Thankfully I have a huge bottle of Aura and I just bought a 15ml of Angel Muse EDP. I was really debating between that and the EDT though... 🤷♀️
I personally think Gourmand fragrances could be linked with ambers, notably caramels and chocolate scents. Especially since vanilla scents are a part of the ambers.
i do tend towards one side of the wheel, but i think its mostly because my mother and sister tend to the fruity/floral/soft floral zone. and i didnt grow up with any other men in the house to contrast it with, so without realizing it, i must have subconsciously filed those categories as extremely feminine. my preferences (for myself) lean almost entirely on the opposite side. the closest i journey to that left side is water. the first fragrance i bought for myself was kenzo's l'eau pour homme when i was 13 (2005ish). and even that was almost a little too feminine for me. when i bought my first batch of materials for making fragrances, i was just buying naturals that i know smells nice. i bought a fair amount of greens and florals, not realizing how low i have to keep their concentration in order to make sure they dont feel too feminine for me to wear. i definitely prefer spices and earthy stuff. vetiver is one of my favorites but i hear it can be an acquired taste. i loved it right away
Yes! Vetiver is definitely something people can struggle with. I like it mostly but sometimes it can be too much if it dominates. I can understand wanting to be different from the smells around you for sure. I think that is an understandable reaction from those experiences. Green can be tricky I bet, too grassy or too dank and bitter, I bet it's a hard balance. 🥰
Hi Claire! It would be interesting to put all my fragrances on the wheel and just look at it. I know for sure I lean on the florals heavily. There are examples of others that I really enjoy with no florals. Super interesting. Great video. Ty 🙏💙✨
Hi Tina! Yes! That's exactly what I wanted to do with my own collection to just see how much variety there was there and whether my taste does gravitate to one particular section... It can be a very subjective process categorising fragrances though. I hope you have a lovely Sunday and thank you for being here 🥰
This is so interesting!!! Have to admit, my taste seems to be VERY narrow, pretty much exactly within the quarter of the wheel. I'm in the 'fresh' category; fruity, green, water and citrus..
Such an interesting overview of the fragrance wheel from you. I agree that we should devise a new category for gourmand. What about whiskey, rum, honey and tobacco? Which category are they under? I love jasmine in floral category because the smell is so airy and transparent. It will give you a good sillage. For fresh category, Acqua Di Gio parfum is such an excellent example in combining citrus, herbaceous green, salty marine, woody, spice and aquatic element in one bottle. The only thing is the longevity for fresh category is not too long. By understanding the wheel i hope it will give me some foundation to understand about layering in the future. I wonder if each in the subcategory can be combined beautifully to make a certain accord. This is getting more interesting.
Yes those are somewhat missing aren't they? I would class those as gourmand too! And yes, a jasmine based around hedione is very light and airy 👍 I definitely think experimentation is the way to go with layering. For me, some combinations really work and others fall flat. I guess it might also be thinking about how much you spray of each one very carefully too! Thanks for watching 🥰
Great survey of this particular fragrance wheel. Ive seen others. Also, you mentioned Chypré and Fougeres in passing. I would have liked those two genres, in addition to the Citrus Aromatic, to be drawn out and discussed. Fougere is my favorite genre by far. I have tons of fougeres from the "barbershop"s to classic to hybrids. Im always policing the use of the term "fougere" on the Internet. Men are always misusing the label "fougere". A true fougere is characterized by a dominant lavender-coumarin accord. Identifying and describing the Chyore has always given me trouble. I know the textbook definition is citrus (usually bergamot) to, labdanum mid, oakmoss base. But so many fragrances outside that structure are called "chypre". Even Aventus is classified as a Fruity Chypre. Then I read an article that explained why Aventus is classified as a Chypre. It said its because of the CONTRAST between the citrus/fruity top and woody mid/base with the smoky birch. So it dawned on me that CONTRAST is what characterizes a Chypre. Now I can just kinda tell by smelling.
Yes absolutely! Chypre is really evolving, with patchouli sometimes instead of oakmoss! Modern chypres just seen to have that back of the throat dryness to their base. It's hard to explain but for me that's how I think of a chypre 😊 your idea of the contrast is probably a much better explanation 😂 thanks for watching 🥰
I want to join a fragrance company and before this I didn’t know anything about fragrance except sweet and oudy 😂 Very helpful informations ,thank you ❤
I find the fragrance wheel to be a fantastic thing if you are to categorize your collection. I did not that the gourmand category was missing. I am mostly into gourmand, oriental, woody and resinous kind of perfumes. The fruity perfumes are a guilty pleasure, I guess. Each year I do buy Escada Magnetism! I think that if you are looking for a very fun and easy fruity perfume, this fragrance is a good chose. I do enjoy the perfumes Escada brings out each year. However, recently they have become rather expensive, so I will not buy any this year - except for Magnetism. Nice to watch someone putting on the scientific "glasses" when talking about perfumes. I really learned a lot - and I can use it in the future.
Thank you! Yes I love the fruity fun ones, I've seen a few people say they love Magnetism, I've not tried it, but that's the pink/ purple tall bottle yes?! Oh and I know those summer ones used to be a bit cheaper, it's a shame really because I bet they sell fewer as a result, but I guess everything went up in price over the last few years. Thanks for watching ❤️
Great video, i would love to ask u for sorting these four perfumes to the categories u think theyre in (just wanna make sure i got the idea) - black icon, Clinique my happy peony picnic, olympea (rose one), and midnight fantasy by taylor swift (the navy blue one), thanks alot for the information!!
Thank you! I am sorry but I've never tried any of those fragrances so I would have to work off Fragrantica note profiles instead of my own experience of them, I would imagine your own categorisations would be more accurate because of this. Thanks for watching 🥰
I'm definitely on the ambery, woody, aromatic wheel sections - much less so on the freshy/ floral sections - though i do have some it's probably about 10 percent of my collection
I feel like my collection is much more spread across the wheel these days. I particularly have a lot of woody resinous scents now. Citrus, green and watery is probably the area I really lack though. 🥰
Thank you! I thought it was something that I don't tend to think about much as I am always so focused on individual notes that I tend to forget the bigger picture, I guess this is the bigger picture! 🙂 Thanks for watching 🥰
I probably lean most towards fresh and woodys, and the softer florals. I think I like many categories but I don't go for more ambery fragrances as I do struggle with the more resinous or vanillic notes
Yes, I think I have an idea of what you enjoy but I'm not sure I can always predict with the florals... I also think your taste has changed slightly away from the really super fresh ones more to florals of late. It's interesting to see what happens as you try more fragrances, we are all really influenced by each others' choices too! Thanks for watching ❤️
@@dr.claire.perfume definitely! Florals I really enjoy a wide range except probably really strong notes like lily, ylang ylang, rose. But I generally like tuberose, lilac, violet, orange blossom/neroli, heliotrope, mimosa, hawthorn, magnolia, narcissus, jasmine, iris, freesia, honeysuckle, sweet pea... haha that's enough I could probably go on!
What an interesting video😍 I had the original ysl opium as a little girl (got it as a gift😅 imagaine that🙈) so it is very nostalgic to me, but I can’t afford it now. Do you know of any scents that smell similar to it…? So Not the black opium (don’t like the black opium🙊) but the original ambery stuff 😍
I know Estée Lauder youth dew is often compared with Opium, but for me that is stronger (my stepmother wears it). I also know Cinnabar from Estée Lauder is compared with it too. But I didn't smell that. I know youth dew can be bought relatively cheaply but I'm not sure about the price of cinnabar. I hope that helps ☺️
Claire, I am fascinated by the subject of this video and I was wondering if u have the time...sometime.. to talk in a future video about the map of odors proposed by P. Jellinek. I read pretty much these days about it and I found it very interesting. He draw a map of odors based on their EFFECTS. He considered that there are 4 main types of odors: Erogenous vs. Antierogenous (refreshing) and Narcotic vs. Stimulating. This map was draw based by the impression the odors have on us (and I think also on animals). This is what I have understood from what I have learned. :)
@@dr.claire.perfume very interesting.:) the one I told u is the first. 1951. from what I have read...I think the old studies are based on the role of the smell in nature, mostly sexual activity. That wasn t the smell ONLY role, but in perfumery I think they considered that important.
Maybe they should make an additional fragrance wheel for the gourmands and whatever else doesn't fit the current wheel? Or update the current wheel, but not sure where the gourmands etc would fit? Close to fruits, perhaps, without being part of 'fresh'? But then again, I understand why fruits and florals are next to each other... hmmmm!
Yes fruity florals are definitely a thing! I'm not sure where I'd put gourmands... I feel like they should maybe go near spicy ambers, but it's not ideal or clear cut at all. I do think the wheel needs a rethink...
Yea other than vanilla, Gourmands just weren't around before. I think they used to put Vanilla and that coffee in Black Opiun in the more spice category of ambers. Love me certain vintage ambers, florals & 1970's chypres. Give me that carnation & aldehyde, orange flower & sandalwood, iris, violet or vetiver any day of the week and twice on Sundays. Have a real soft spot for those 90's soft water, cucumber and lotus fragrances but wear them less often than back in the day. A good spritz of the relaunced BBW Juniper Breeze or White Citrus this year just brings me back. I'm in my early 40's and have a collection of 60 fragrances, mostly body sprays & lotions with just over a dozen actual perfumes. All time favorite is I think close to one you wouldn't like based off the Floris review of White Rose you gave. I love what I think my Great Grand Ma would have worn, Vintage L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci but I also have oily skin and probably a different body chemistry. It's what makes fragrance so unique and personal for all of us and so fascinating. Great vid and information. Thank you!
Gourmands seem very recent in perfume history for sure... I don't know what it is, but 90s fragrances are so distinctive to me, maybe the aquatic / green fresh feel of them. I have florabotanica with carnation and I used to have eternity with carnation (I struggled with that one) but that's about it. It's not a note that I am that familiar with. In fact I was shocked when I smelt eternity because in supermarkets carnations just smell cool, they don't smell spicy and paper like, as they do in fragrance... Yes variety is the joy of perfume and people's tastes for sure. Thanks for watching ❤️
@@dr.claire.perfume You know, I can't remember the last time I smelled Eternity or Euphoria for that matter. Have to give it a sniff when I get the chance. Yes, that green in the supermarket carnation is what I love too. Thanks for your thoughts and work!
I think sometimes fragrances can be in more than one category, I don't own Pleasures, I've only tried it in store, so you are probably the better judge if you know this fragrance well. It's not about listed notes, it's about how it smells. If it's grassy to you with little florals then you should categorise it as green.
Claire, i really appreciate the perspective you put out into the world. I remember your video on indoles where you pointed out how fragrances are specific to culture - in a lot of India jasmine is everyday and basic, even connected to prayer, and more grandma than sexy. Here i appreciate that you flagged the colonial word oriental. Said would be thrilled. Thank you for your content!
Yes, people frame how they talk about fragrance with their own social experiences. It's a huge problem not just in fragrance, but the world generally, that people fail to recognise other people's social experiences and culture. I think you are the only person here who has actually agreed with me on the use of Oriental. I think since making this video, my opinion on the whole thing has hardened. I don't want to use it. Someone commented on my last video about why fragrances are discontinued that Guerlain had changed a fragrance name with the word Oriental in it and how they didn't see the issue and how their Chinese friends don't mind being called Oriental... I tried to point out the colonial, othering and social associations with the word to state my opinion on it. I think there are a lot of people who just think Oriental best describes that style but I disagree, it tells you nothing about what it actually is. Amber does that better. Thanks for watching 🥰
No problem. You might also like my perfume colours video if you've not already seen it, ruclips.net/video/TXCYYM-m5U0/видео.htmlsi=FV3HHCRQAbbhH7Md Thanks for watching ❤️
Such a informative video, thank you Claire! I don have a question though as it comes to layering . I actually not a 'layering' type of person, but sometimes when a perfume ends up not to be that perfect to me I tried to layer it to make it more pleasant. (mostly it didn't ;) ) To layer, do we have to pick "the opposite" on the wheel to make the outcome the best? Like the color wheel we use for hair?
I can't say I am a layering person most of the time either, but it depends what you want to achieve. I think I normally choose something with some notes already in the fragrance to amplify. So for example, I might add a green vanilla, or a woody vanilla to something with vanilla or sandalwood as a base but when I want that part of it to be more prominent. I might add a boozy fragrance to something with a smokey cherry. Or a jasmine fragrance to an amber. Of course you can try clashes too, but I think it's harder to achieve something that works (I can't say I've managed it so far, but I'm not the best at layering). For me it's hard to find an aquatic fragrance, a green fragrance or a citrus fragrance that isn't simply overwhelmed by the style of fragrance that is opposite it, which to me always feels "stronger", but perhaps I just don't have enough fragrances to experiment effectively 🤔
Have you tried Baiser Vole by Cartier? Thats a very powdery floral (the most powdery floral I've ever smelled) but there's only one note...Lily of the Valley. Would that be floral, or soft floral.
I have tried it! It was a few years back in store. I remember it being a greener but full and realistic petally lily fragrance rather than LOTV. I would categorise it as floral as I don't remember it being powdery, but as I say, I haven't tried it extensively nor recently. 😊
Hi, Claire! I really enjoyed your video. I recently discovered your channel. I'm a big perfume enthusiast. I'm now studying graphic design but i decided to learn more about perfumes and smells. I want to work in this field. I don't know where to start. Do you have any recommendations for me? Like a book, a website, even an activity for me to explore and learn about perfumes? I will obviously watch all of your content. Thanks in advance!
I'd say join IG and just talk to some Indie perfumers. Having someone to ask about stuff is really useful, I think that by talking to smaller people on IG who aren't in it for the money or fame has really helped me to understand more about fragrance and the fragrance industry. Also don't believe anything you watch on YT or read on the net about fragrance without thinking for yourself about how much sense it makes. Always try to confirm info somewhere else, there's an awful lot of claptrap out there. I don't own any books on fragrance so I can't recommend any. If I want information on something I tend to do quite an exhaustive search rather than use one source, different sites are good for different topics. Sarah McCartney talks a lot of sense (4160 Tuesdays brand owner and perfumer), she's a good person to check out, she does videos too. 🥰
I just found your video. Such a great explanation. Do you decide what category the fragrance belongs by the base notes? Also when you are layering do I take a fragrance note in that perfume and pick a top or middle note that I like and mix it with a fragrance that has that note as the base note?
Thank you ❤️ I think a lot of these categories are determined by base notes to a degree as that is the overall impression you are left with, but not entirely, citrus and florals are rarely if ever going to be found as base notes. I think with layering, I pick a fragrance to layer that is relatively simplistic, for example, Alien or vanilla 28 or similar. Then I choose with a fragrance with those notes but maybe not as prominent as I would like, for example I might want more jasmine or more vanilla and mix. I might also add those fragrances to particular fragrances that I think those notes would compliment or lift. I think my most successful layering is where I've layered fragrances with a few notes in common though! Hope that helps. ❤️ thanks for watching 🥰
This was helpful but sad for me. The fresh, light florals don't agree with me, but I noticed the last notes smell good. I think cedarwood? Maybe I can find a perfume with that in the first or heart?
I think if you are having issues with some fragrances, you will have to assess them on case basis. In my experience, light florals are a category of fragrance that are not done well by cheaper and ever some designer brands, gourmand on the other hand is easier to do more cheaply, same with woody fragrances. I would stay away from amberwood (a trademarked synthetic) fragrances and things with oakmoss (again this is normally synthetic these days rather than oakmoss as pure oakmoss extract is banned or heavily restricted) as you might find those too metallic, e..g I don't think Chloe nomade would be one for you.
I’ve seen another version of this wheel that uses Oriental instead of Amber. And this kinda remedies the original omission of gourmands. Oriental subcategories: Soft oriental: incense, resin Oriental: vanilla, cinnamon, chocolate Oriental Wood: patchouli, sandalwood I feel like this works betters as Amber gives the impression of solely amber, musk, resin scents. While Oriental fits nicely in between the subcategories of Soft Oriental > Oriental Floral and Woods into Oriental Woods.
In my videos as well as with my teaching as a lecturer, I try to decolonise how I approach subjects and this includes removing the term Oriental in how I discuss fragrance, which is solely used in perfumery as a result of our colonial past. If you web search the "Oriental" fragrance family, you will find that "amber" is the alternative term, referring to exactly the same fragrance family as Oriental. I agree that people think of the amber accord, but that can be made with styrax, benzoin, other resins, patchouli and vanilla, and so I guess these do actually cover the entire family. In realtion to Oriental, a few brands, for example Olfactive O and Dossier, have removed the term Oriental from their fragrances names because it is now considered controversial to use the term, e.g. Dossier Oriental Cherry is now Ambery cherry, Olfactive O Oriental is now Amber. I think I'd always associated chocolate with patchouli because of Angel and other patchouli fragrances, so it makes sense for chocolate to be grouped here. I am unsure where other gourmand notes might sit though. They might be better placed at other parts of the wheel, for example, milk might fit alongside sandalwood. Thanks for watching 🥰
I have a lot of allergies, so I have problems with many perfumes. It would be helpful if I could find a commonality between the fragrances I'm allergic to, so I could find a fragrance I can tolerate. The problem is that perfumes aren't required to label their ingredients, so making comparisons is tricky..... ESPECIALLY when smelling them to see, frequently triggers an asthma or COPD attack. I KNOW I'm allergic to Sandalwood, but not to Vanilla, Baby Powder or Lavender, beyond that, I'm lost. I used to wear Avon's Pearls and Lace all the time, but they discontinued it years ago. I USED to be able to wear Blue Waltz, but I've recently discovered I'm alergic to THAT now too. I know I' m allergic to Red Door, Imari, Channel #5, and almost all of what they used to call "Oriental" perfumes. I'm pretty much at a loss trying to figure out what's safe and what will cause me problems. Even finding a deodorant I can tolerate is proving problematic now that the only formulation that doesn't cause me hives has discontinued their powder fragrance. (Allergies SUCK!) Any Ideas or enlightenment you might have for me would help tremendously. But either way, thanks for letting me vent, as you can imagine, it can be frustrating sometimes. Thanks again.
That's very annoying and yes, in a world where any Tom Dick or Harry can just use GCMS to uncover a composition, why not just label the ingredients in full?! I was thinking about this and you could perhaps look at GCMS formulae that have been published for the fragrances that you've mentioned and see what overlaps. You would need an Excel spreadsheet with different columns for this. The problem is that some chemicals are called different names, but still it might help. It's likely the only way to know for sure what you are sensitive to. E.g. saying you think you might be sensitive to sandalwood, that could be a number of different aromachemicals, so making this kind of list for fragrances you can't tolerate and another list for ones that you can might be useful. Best of luck 🥰
It is useful, at least initially, to know as many ingredients and aromatic families as possible. At least for me, it was a guide to study more technically, those aromas that I liked and that led me to buy a perfume. I believe that for those who call themselves perfumery enthusiasts, it is essential to know and study the fragrance wheel. Ordinary people say: "it smells good", "it's citrus", "it's sweet". Epithets like those are useful and correct up to a point. Making an analogy with poetry, where there is a large number of words and linguistic ornaments, in perfumery there is also an abundance of resources to make the olfactory experience richer in terms of definition and comparison of fragrances. Today, perfumery has become quite an eclectic industry. New fragrances appear periodically and challenge the structure of the fragrance wheel. Houses like "Akro" and "Strangers Perfumerie" are some examples, where the combination of certain ingredients does not fit directly into any category, where the construction of the perfume goes in order to recreate a situation or thing, which can escape being placed in certain aromatic family and work from there to create a fragrance. Finally, it is also interesting how tastes change over time and the olfactory experience. At first I only liked aromatic citrus fragrances, which were typecast within the typical Italian colognes that tried to portray the mediterranean with the use of herbs, light woods and abundant citrus. Nowadays, I like oriental fragrances, with the use of resins and woods like oud. I have quite dense fragrances that at first I did not think I would use. Sooo... Has your taste in fragrances changed over time? Maybe a topic for new video. Too much text. Bye.
I certainly agree that there are more recently formulated fragrances that don't seem to fit any category particularly well. Perfumery has moved on and the fragrance wheel hasn't even got to gourmands 🤷♀️ Yes for sure my taste has changed! I did make a video about it a year or so back but I might make another, thanks for the suggestion and for your interesting comment. 😊
So true about gourmands not being part of traditional perfumery. They really should be added. This is such an interesting and informative video Claire! ❤️❤️
Thank you! Yes gourmands deserve some love! 😊
I always find it a bit annoying when people label 'fruity' fragrances as 'juvenile' ~ which happens a lot! They smell something fruity/sweet and associate it with kids and teens immediately.
Personally, I eat a lot of fruits and berries (I know berries are fruit too, but still like to mention them separately! lol) ~ if I had to eat only one category of foods for a whole year, I'd pick FRUIT without hesitation. I just love all fruit and berries; the way they taste, the way the look, the way they smell.... So *of course* that's reflected in my perfume preferences too! Why wouldn't it be?? I'm 41 so far from being a teenager or a child, but YES I still prefer fruity/sweet smells. I just don't understand the AGEISM that exists even in the perfume world! Why are adults/older people not 'allowed' to prefer and enjoy sweetness ??
Yes I don't get it either, to me a good and realistic fruity fragrance is hard to achieve and a very special and delicious thing. I love to wear fruity fragrances for the same reason as you, I adore eating berries especially 😊 i think along with the term oriental, judgements on masculine Vs feminine fragrances, describing fragrances as making you smell like that girl or a rich auntie or a boss... 🤣 Ageism comments really also get to me. Anyone any age or gender can enjoy any fragrance for sure.
Have a fab Sunday 🥰
Scents that are overly sweet can be sickly
Happy Saturday Dr. Claire. Another great lesson. I think of the wheel as just a springboard with loads of sub-categories embedded in them. I definitely lean towards Amber and woods but I can appreciate gourmands and some florals. I like keeping my options open because there could always be a gem hidden in a category and I’d hate to miss something.
Thank you 🥰 Yes for sure! I agree, I just try everything 🤣 I try to have an open mind now, because so many times I've been wrong and loved something that on paper, I should really not enjoy.
I agree that the wheel is just a way of organising the types to make it easier to see the breadth of the fragrance world, but yes, it doesn't cover everything and I find it very subjective as to where each fragrance sits exactly!
I hope you have a fab Sunday 🥰
Your videos are consistently fascinating and clearly take a lot of preparation! Cheers, Claire.
Thanks Jim 🙂 I really appreciate that. Have a lovely Sunday 🥰
It's a useful tool, but needs to be adjusted/updated. In addition to the Gourmands I feel the animalic, dried, smoked, aged, and indolic scents could also do with a category.
Yes, there's certainly some categories that could encompass a bit of that, but I do think it either needs to be more explicitly explained what fits where or new categories specifically created. Thanks for watching 🥰
Maybe, if the fragrance wheel gets edited, “spices” could become a category? I think Gourmands (probably my favorite) could go in there. Under the fresh category, I’d place “soapy/ laundry” in there.
Love from NJ USA.
Yes! I also felt like the laundry clean ones were a bit lacking... I think it does need an update and perhaps more focus on the more modern styles and names rather than the traditional ones.
Have a fab Sunday 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume I completely agree with you. ❤️🌹
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We can’t skip the gourmands! Lol they are my favorite. Great information video. ❤
Thank you! ❤️ Yes gourmands need to be included somewhere!
@@dr.claire.perfume the middle, if you think about it!
@@dr.claire.perfumein the middle, if you think about it!
Hi Claire, I have always loved perfumes but have only recently started building a proper collection. In doing so I have started watching sooooooo many perfume RUclipsrs to get their views and reviews. I came across your channel a couple of weeks ago and have been so impressed!! You are the best by far!! I am gradually working my way through your amazing and informative videos. I watch at least one per day. The way you explain everything and even the tone of your voice makes you very watchable. You could work in tv broadcasting!!
Thanks for teaching me so much!! ❤🥰😘😍
Oh thank you! That's really lovely of you to write that. I am a new university lecturer and I feel like practising with YT videos really helped my presentation skills and the way I organise and frame information for my job. I'm happy that you are enjoying fragrance, it's a whole other world isn't it?! 🥰
Things evolve and adding gourmand to the wheel is a good idea. Gourmand perfumes are popular now. I don't care for out-and-out gourmand fragrances, especially the sweet ones, but I don't mind a bit of a gourmand scent in a perfume. Great video. I'm learning so much from watching yours. Thank you. You also talk about different perfumes than others who seem to talk about the same ones.
Same really. I'm not big into gourmands, but a nice subtle gourmand twist on a fragrance is sometimes beautiful.
Thank you! I'm really happy that you enjoy my videos! I just do this for fun, not for affiliate income etc, I don't ever want this to be more than a fun hobby that I share my love for, so I guess that might be why I talk about slightly different things. ☺️ Thanks for watching 🥰
I love this! It's such an easy, well articulated reference for anyone who wants a quick guide to understanding fragrance notes/families. Thank you!
Thank you 😊
Oooh it’s fun to think about what my wheel looks like! I’ve realised this year that I’m really fond of purple florals - I knew I loved violets but I really like lilac and wisteria a lot too. Iris and heliotrope seem to pop up in lots of things I like too! I’m mainly fresh, clean and fruity really (oi oi!) but I think I’ve at least got on finger in each slice of the pie though!
Yes me too! I never realised how much I love lilac, heliotrope and violets until about a year into RUclips... It all clicked! Yes, I think I'd most associate clean florals with you if I had to guess. Thanks for watching ❤️
Good morning beautiful! I love your in-depth videos about fragrances. I appreciate the wheel I love light and citrus notes.
Good choices! Thanks for watching 🥰
My perfume taste is so eclectic. Like my music taste. Although I can see a leaning towards ambers. But I think it’s genuinely because I’m one of those odd people that adores autumn and winter and my perfumes kind of celebrate these seasons. Great vid 🌻🙏🏽
Thank you! I think my scent preferences also suit autumn winter... I find the light summery ones a bit dull after a time but I do love summer still 🤷♀️ I love the sunshine and warmth. Thanks for watching 🥰
As a musician I was always looking for my "lucky scent" to wear at my concerts or performances. They are all special to me and I love them, but I´m now, thanks to you Clair starting to like soft florals and soft ambers!
Finding perfumes outside my normal box has brought me so much joy during normal days, just hanging around at home, doing some practicing on my baby grand or even relaxing with a good book. Wonderful to scent my whole day in different styles.
Gosh, that must be a very interesting, exciting and perhaps also sometimes exhausting career! Yes, I love different 'fumes for different moods too 😂 I really love the softer ones for being around the house. I find them relaxing. 🥰
I learned a lot. Thanks for sharing the best part of fragrance, knowledge and insight. Love your channel. Be blessed
Thank you, you too. 🥰
This was definitely helpful! Last night I decided to categorize my collection and I'm definitely an Amber/Floral lover. I have just one Aromatic and you are so right. The marine notes have always bothered me and I didn't know why until I watched this. I tend to avoid layering for some reason but I may give it a try now. Thank you Claire. I always learn from you.
Thank you! ❤️ I'm really happy that you found this useful. I think I am also very much amber/floral too, with a touch of woody. I have some aromatic and citrus fragrances too but they are rarely loves.
I definitely love a wide variety of categories but the mossy woods is a category that I can’t get to feel like “me”. Maybe one day, maybe not 🤷🏽♀️
I absolutely think it’s great for getting a general idea of what scents traditionally mix well 😊
Thanks for this video!
Yeah I get that! I used to feel the same, I thought chypres were completely old school and not me. Thanks for watching ❤️
This is really informative. I'm trying to organize and categorize my perfume collection. Putting them into categories will help.
Thank you! I also categorise my fragrances to organise them, I find it makes choosing quicker and easier. I primarily divide them by overall feel rather than family as here, but it's a similar idea. Thanks for watching 🥰
Hey Claire. I feel like I gravitate more towards the fresh fragrances with some fruit just because I’m preferring lighter scents right now. It would be nice if they updated the wheel since fragrances have changed so much. I didn’t even know there was a wheel at first. This was a great video
Thank you! Yes I think it certainly needs an overhaul. I know there are a few different versions, so perhaps an update has been done but not well publicised? Me too, I have been enjoying the lighter florals of late. Thanks for watching and have a lovely weekend 🥰
Knowledgable and quite comprehensive explanations and examples. This video demands to be seen several times to learn everything that was explained. Excellent stuff! Well done!
Thank you! ❤️ I'm happy that you found it useful 🥰
Thank you for bringing up 4711. That is one of my very favorite. My mother wore it and she was born in 1918.
Yes my grandmother wore it as a treatment for headaches, it was apparently widely known for that!
Wow Claire! What a great coincidence. Love this and just filmed something similar. I love your indepth knowledge. Excellent!
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Thank you! I look forward to your video 😊
Thanks Claire! I enjoyed learning more about the fragrance wheel and agree that the gourmand category is missing.
Thank you! Yes gourmands need acknowledging... Thanks for watching 🥰
Hi Claire, love you brought this up in this video, as well that you added examples for the categories listed. I am into florals, floral woody, as well ambery and freshy. 🌺🌺
Thank you! Your taste sounds pretty diverse 😊
Good Morning Claire !
As always educating us in the Science of Perfumes. From the Fragrance wheel I enjoy the ambers or Oriental
Good choice, I love a lot of those too. 😊
Great information! Very informative. Really enjoyed it. Thank you Claire!
Thank you! I'm really happy to read that you enjoyed it! Thanks for letting me know ☺️
Hello beautiful Claire! I also like different categories of the fragrance wheel and I also enjoy them combined, probably even more. I find straight up florals a little boring and I tend to tire of them quickly
Yes I think any fragrance that is relying on one type of note has to be amazing otherwise it's just not that interesting long term.
This is so informative claire thank you for this video, very well explained ❤
I'll definitely take note of this fragrance wheel.
Thank you! ❤️ I'm happy that this was useful. 😊
People weren’t trying to smell like cotton candy and marshmallows in 1942 😊
This is true! 🤣
They would have if they knew they COULD HAVE.
They WOULD have if they knew they COULD have.
Roses, red berries, oud, sandalwood, patchouli, and moss are some of my favorite notes. Thinking of them in terms of a fragrance wheel is really interesting
Thank you! Yes, I guess those notes would make you think of a few overlapping categories. For me fruity is very broad, I'm not sure the fragrance wheel today really entirely reflects the focus and diversity of modern perfumery. Thanks for watching 🥰
Good Morning Claire 🤗 I agree!!! They missed a slice of our favorite gourmands lol 😊😉 I appreciate the wheel it gives an overall idea of a scent profile although there are times that I’m a bit confused as to what they are displaying and what I’m smelling 🤣
Yes, I found it quite hard to categorise fragrances, it's very subjective sometimes. I think one fragrance could often fit multiple categories. Thanks for watching ❤️
Very informative for someone just learning about perfume. I thought I hated florals but turns out theres so many different florals
Thank you! Yep absolutely, if someone says they hate florals, I always suggest they try something with heliotrope or violet first! Those are underused in the designer perfume world especially. Also lilac and linden blossom but those are less friendly. Thanks for watching 🥰
Ooh I love this topic. It’s funny, you don’t see a wheel or hear from salespeople in department stores talk about it but almost every indie fragrance designer/creator does. I’m such a fan girl for Mandy Aftel and her natural perfumery (tempted to put natural in quotes bc it’s all chemical compounds) and she’s developed her own wheel to help budding perfumers build their scent compositions. Her wheel includes a gourmand and animallic sections placed between floral and fresh. I don’t personally look at it much except when researching.
Hi Jackie! I was reading about the wheel and apparently sales assistants were trained to try to find fragrances that are of a similar category to those that customers already use, but yeah, I agree with you, you never see these fragrance wheel diagrams in mainstream shops or hear it mentioned... Maybe the idea faded from the designer world?
I have seen the wheel mentioned more by creators than retailers. I agree perfumers and even people interested in aromatherapy, candle making, soap making etc seem to be very familiar with the wheel.
Mandy Aftel's version of the wheel sounds much more appropriate for right now. I think definitely think the one here is missing several sections! Thanks for watching 🥰
Very informaitive, Claire. Thank you !
Thank you! 😊 Have a lovely Saturday 🥰
Thanks for this video Claire.😀 Really glad tgo have a run through of the ''fragrance wheel''. You just proved what I already thought; I'm all over the place and love a bit of everything. Gourmands should definitely be in there at some point. A gradation of fruity and fruity florals maybe also. What about very musk forward fragrances?
An update is needed...
Yes, i totally agree Cat, I struggled to put the powdery and musky ones in that weren't floral, it didn't feel like they belonged in woods or ambers. There are certainly a few sections missing here! Thanks for watching, I hope you have a great week. 🥰
Ohmygod, I learned so much - what amazing videos you make! Thank you! I'm rewatching and laughing at the part where it's theorized that most people really prefer/like just one area of the fragrance wheel. And you (like me) say that you actually like lots of areas, lol -- that's because we are addicted to fragrance and love trying everything! I think it's true that most people (the normal ones haha j/k) DO like one area the best. I certainly did before I became a fragrance addict 😆
🤣 I hadn't thought about it like that, but you are completely right, that one section theory is definitely for muggles isn't it not addicts? 🤣 I think the fragrance wheel is often used to help to train sales assistants so they are better placed to suggest fragrances that people might enjoy from what they currently own and like, so I guess that's part of where that theory comes from. Thanks for watching 🥰
Thank you for this framework. I recently completed a spreadsheet of my fragrances by notes, but didn't think to categorize them along the wheel. It will be interesting to do so and see what categories are missing or thin in my collection. Thanks!
Oh no problem 🙂 yes! I need to do that with mine! I recently made a spreadsheet to keep track too 🙂 I think you will naturally not love some categories more than others, but filming this, I noticed that I have a real lack of woody fragrances. Thanks for watching 🥰
Thank you for this very instructive introduction to the wheel. I'm going to investigate further 😀. (and congratulations on your French accent, as it's so rare among fragrance fans 😂). What book would you recommend that covers the wheel in the same way as you did in your video, with notes and examples (including men's fragrances)? Thanks Claire.
Thanks! My husband's a French teacher so perhaps that partially explains it. 😂 I actually don't have any books on fragrance so I can't recommend any. What I've learnt, I've learnt through discussing fragrance with others, including perfumers and other perfume obsessives, and also in the case of this video, referring to the Michael Edwards Perfume Wheel website and Wikipedia. Hope that helps!
Hello, Claire. I am reviewing my collection according to your explanations and I think that a very good example for amber florals is Joop Le bain. That is the best example I have for this category. A second example is Estee lauder Bronze Godess Eau Fraiche. The funny thing is that they smell quite different :)) they are in the same category (I think) but they are pretty different. I will continue reviwing my collection and come back if I find interesting facts :)
Yes! It's a strange way to think about things really. Very different smelling fragrances can be in the same category, you are right and I really think it would be difficult sometimes for two people to reach a consensus on where a particular fragrance belongs, it's very much a matter of opinion. Good luck 🥰
You’re so informative! I’m definitely gonna try this out.
Thank you! 🥰
I am a perfume lover and use wide variety of perfumes. This video is really nice, insightful and useful. Thank you Clair ❤
Thank you! Yes, I think my fragrance choices are pretty well spread across these categories too now 😊
Clare you never cease to amaze me 🤩 my taste is still all
Over the place but I have noticed that I’m moving a little bit away from the floral and enjoying the more earthy smells but also loving fruity 🤷♀️at the end of the day what I reach for depends on my mood or state of mind ,time of year
I think the fragrance wheel gives us a very loosely based idea of where the notes and ingredients Fall ( if that makes sense 🤷♀️
Hugs ❤
Yes I totally agree, it's just an idea of how different or similar.things are to each other. I personally found it quite hard to think about where my own fragrances should be positioned on it. I agree that what we reach for is often determined by seasons too 😊
Thanks for watching ❤️
Love this vid. Was so helpful!
Thank you 🥰
I found this very interesting Claire. I'd never heard of the fragrance wheel and, thanks to your explanation and examples, I now know I have a fairly eclectic taste in perfumes 😊
The only longlasting citrus fragrances i have are Simone Andreoli's Malibu Party in the Bay (predominately lime and coconut) and Electric by Agent Provocateur (mainly lime and fig).
Have a lovely weekend in this glorious sunshine ❤❤ edited to say i got a sample of Shay & Blue's Sicilian Limes after your S&B video - 🤮 straight up curry.
Hi Fiona, thank you! Oh I keep hearing about that party in the bay fragrance, I really want to try that one, do you think it smells like virgin island water? Is electric the one that Is meant to be a bit BR540 like?
Yeah, I wouldn't recommend Shay and blue at all, I think it's just that brand is really not one for me and seemingly not for a lot of others too. I couldn't stand a few of the ones that I bought and really didn't love any of them, they felt like a disappointment and a waste of money. Thanks for watching as always ❤️
@@dr.claire.perfumeI've never smelt VIW but every review I've seen has said Party in the Bay is similar, but is cheaper and has incredible sillage and longevity. I have no idea if Electric is like BR540 I'm afraid. I doubt it from what I've heard about BR540 but I've not tried that one either! 🤷♀️
It's weird to me that I think they are considered dupes, I can't imagine it 😂 I might have to search for party in the bay... 👀
I am new to this field, but find perfumery extremely interesting and planning to take it up as my hobby and passion. Its so very involving. I love it. Your video was simply superb. Maybe what I exactly was looking for to know the categories. Thank you so much. I have subscribed and liked. Will start watching your videos one by one.
That's really exciting! I hope you love it! And thank you ❤️ I hope you enjoy the videos 🥰
Same! I've been looking for a creator who breaks things down for me like I'm back in school -- perhaps elementary/primary school 😂 I'm really glad I found Dr. Claire 😊
The world of perfume and the aromas are addicting. If I could I'd spend all day learning about perfume and trying them out. I wonder what is going on with people like me?
My favourite style is woody. Dont mind a bit of floral or amber either. Violet, rose, pine, cedar, incense, ginger, I dont like fresh, shower gel, very sweet or citrus. I find a lot of them too generic.
Ooh I love incense! In fact, I really enjoy resins in general. I also struggle with citrus. I find a lot are absolutely jam-packed with ambroxan 🤦♀️ a great affordable one that I do really like though is Olfactive O Citrus. Thanks for watching 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfumeI tried Dolce & Gabanna Light Blue femme the other day I couldn't smell anything after 10 minutes. I recommend a fougere for you. Azzaro Pour Home L'eau. It's citrus orangey Lemon up top but dries down to a very light lavender soapy wood scent. It's pretty unisex id say so you could wear it. It's only about £12 in TJ Hughes.
I like fruit like apple and orange. Nothing very sweet though. I also want to try some green fragrances. I'm a bit of a newbie. I do have a nice fougere that I recommend to you. Azzaro Pour Homme L'eau. It's has citrus lemon top notes, heart notes of Lavender and Geranium and dries down to woody musk. It's a very light soapy woody fragrance. It's unisex id say so you could wear it. Cost me £12 in TJ Hughes.
I can't deal with Light Blue 🙊 the textured musk is a massive no for me. I know it's loved though. I had a flanker at one point (Love is Love) and I had to declutter it.
I haven't tried it, or even seen that one! Thanks for the recommendation. 🥰
What a fun video ☺️ thank for sharing Claire!
Thank you! 😊
Hello Claire,
I am so behind on my viewing. This was so informative (as usual).
I like the idea of a fragrance wheel for perfume, they have them for wine tasting and for colour theory in art. It makes total sense to me. 😁 I'm with you on liking a variety of profiles from the wheel. I do have notes I struggle with, most people have something they don't enjoy. I think my most challenging segment is the green smells. I do line some, but many in that category can either come off masculine leaning to my nose or they are something I prefer to smell in nature rather than wear. I will say, the more I smell the more I am open to new things. It makes it more interesting!
Thanks for another fantastic video! Take care! 💛😊✨
Hi Jenn 😊 I think there is huge crossover with smell, sight and taste, you are right, the wheels make total sense and are the same idea in each situation. Yes green is a struggle for me too in some forms. Especially when it's something dank and forest-like. Fresher, watery floral greens are sometimes nice though.
Thanks for watching 🥰
I love all categories. My collection starts with fruity florals and it grows in every direction. Here is my selection for June, I wanted it to be oriental, bold and warm: Samsara, 34 boulevard Saint-Germain from Diptyque EDT and EDP, Fantosmia, The cobra and the canary, Obsession, L’air du désert marocain and Boucheron! Very different than my usual white florals!
And Squid from Zoologist!
Wow that's a very striking selection! I've been really enjoying trying lots of diptyque fragrances recently, I am trying to decide whether to get orphéon. I would absolutely love to try l'air du désert Marocain 😊 thanks for watching and sharing your current wears, it's interesting to hear what people are reaching for 🥰
This is so informative! I love the whole concept😊
Thank you! 🥰
Gourmand fragrances are my favourites, they aren't (yet) in the wheel, at second place I love amber florals and at third place I love the amber-fruity ones. I found so beautiful how you pronounce Kenzo Jungle L'Elephant, your french accent (L'Elephant) is pretty and perfect😍
Well it's probably not spot on, but my husband is a French, German and Spanish teacher who also speaks a little Italian and Polish so I've got a good resource to tap there! I did learn French and Latin though. Thanks for watching 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume so many languages, you both intelligent people♥️♥️💖💙🎆🌻
Well I am nowhere near fluent, you are fluent in what? Three languages?! More?! That's so amazing!
@@dr.claire.perfume I am fluent in four: German, Italian, English and Portuguese
@@VeritasVincitFragrancesVeritas that is even more amazing as I assume that's not even your job per se, it's just something that you've had to do as part of life 👌
yet another amazing informative video! my favourite fragrances are always the heavy warm resinous amber and spicy 80's style powerhouses with thick syrupy sweet gourmands a close second. even better when they overlap like in my ride or die pre-loreal angel. my least favourite are definitely citrus and fresh/watery perfumes with an exception of womanity which i adore when its a stinking hot day and it might not be totally appropriate to knock the people around me for six with a huge dose of ysl opium or dior poison! but each to their own :) xxx
Thank you! ❤️ Haha 😂 oh I really loved Womanity when I first got my bottle, I think towards the end it had changed a bit but I didn't repurchase and trying the reformulation. I love Angel for winter and I think I'm beginning to appreciate the big 80s fragrances more these days than I once did. It's interesting to see how tastes change the more than you try!
I hope you have a fab weekend and thanks for watching ❤️
@@dr.claire.perfume well i recently risked it all and bought a new formulation bottle of womanity knowing full well how loreal have decimated angel and alien but to my pleasant surprise its not half bad! perhaps not *quite* as strong as the original but thankfully it hasn’t suffered half as much as angel and alien at loreal’s hands 😊 xxx
Oh thank you for letting me know, I've not really heard how it is from anyone else who tried both formulations, so that's useful. I think L'Oréal will discontinue Womanity soon, the only place I ever see a bottle is on the Mugler website...
@@dr.claire.perfume absolutely that's why i risked buying another bottle because it randomly appeared back on their uk website after months of it being out of stock with discontinuation rumours. it's only sold in 80ml and 100ml refill bottles and like you said only available online. i wouldn't be surprised if they discontinue aura too whilst they're at it. angel muse has been discontinued which is a huge shame but i think i'd rather them discontinue fragrances over these god awful reformulations they keep doing xxx
Me too, I agree, the reformulations are in general just awful. Thankfully I have a huge bottle of Aura and I just bought a 15ml of Angel Muse EDP. I was really debating between that and the EDT though... 🤷♀️
Thank you, Claire, for this in-depth video 🙏 I love ambers & woods 🧡🤎 There's so much new to learn!
Thank you! I'm happy that you enjoyed it! 🥰
What a great and informative video thanks a lot!
Thank you 😊 I'm happy that you found it useful 🥰
I personally think Gourmand fragrances could be linked with ambers, notably caramels and chocolate scents. Especially since vanilla scents are a part of the ambers.
This is certainly a possibility! I think chocolate fits in with patchouli too. Thanks for watching 🥰
i do tend towards one side of the wheel, but i think its mostly because my mother and sister tend to the fruity/floral/soft floral zone. and i didnt grow up with any other men in the house to contrast it with, so without realizing it, i must have subconsciously filed those categories as extremely feminine. my preferences (for myself) lean almost entirely on the opposite side. the closest i journey to that left side is water. the first fragrance i bought for myself was kenzo's l'eau pour homme when i was 13 (2005ish). and even that was almost a little too feminine for me.
when i bought my first batch of materials for making fragrances, i was just buying naturals that i know smells nice. i bought a fair amount of greens and florals, not realizing how low i have to keep their concentration in order to make sure they dont feel too feminine for me to wear. i definitely prefer spices and earthy stuff. vetiver is one of my favorites but i hear it can be an acquired taste. i loved it right away
Yes! Vetiver is definitely something people can struggle with. I like it mostly but sometimes it can be too much if it dominates.
I can understand wanting to be different from the smells around you for sure. I think that is an understandable reaction from those experiences. Green can be tricky I bet, too grassy or too dank and bitter, I bet it's a hard balance. 🥰
Love your picks for these categories Claire!!!💞💞💞
Thanks Joss, have a fab Sunday 🥰
I have tried my first layering combination…. Room 1015 cherry punk and YSL black opium. What a delicious combination that lasts all day ! 🎉
That does sound stunning! 😍
It really is beautiful combo. (A much longer lasting and complex journey that the Black over Red) ❤❤❤
@@deniseplasse5126 I can imagine. Over Red was fine but it lacked a defined base, it just made me think of a cherry lollipop.
@@dr.claire.perfume it lacks longevity too. I am just dissapointed the season for cherry is about over. 😢
@@deniseplasse5126 yes! And ooh cherries are beautiful, my road is lined with cherry trees and here they are only just coming into blossom 🌸
Thank you, this was very helpful.
Thank you 🥰
Hi Claire! It would be interesting to put all my fragrances on the wheel and just look at it. I know for sure I lean on the florals heavily. There are examples of others that I really enjoy with no florals. Super interesting. Great video. Ty 🙏💙✨
Hi Tina! Yes! That's exactly what I wanted to do with my own collection to just see how much variety there was there and whether my taste does gravitate to one particular section... It can be a very subjective process categorising fragrances though.
I hope you have a lovely Sunday and thank you for being here 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume always! Or almost always, lol. Have a good weekend!
It's so sunny and warm here! I've been loving the weather 😎
This is so interesting!!!
Have to admit, my taste seems to be VERY narrow, pretty much exactly within the quarter of the wheel.
I'm in the 'fresh' category; fruity, green, water and citrus..
That's interesting! Do you think that's also a little seasonal too?
Such an interesting overview of the fragrance wheel from you. I agree that we should devise a new category for gourmand. What about whiskey, rum, honey and tobacco? Which category are they under? I love jasmine in floral category because the smell is so airy and transparent. It will give you a good sillage. For fresh category, Acqua Di Gio parfum is such an excellent example in combining citrus, herbaceous green, salty marine, woody, spice and aquatic element in one bottle. The only thing is the longevity for fresh category is not too long. By understanding the wheel i hope it will give me some foundation to understand about layering in the future. I wonder if each in the subcategory can be combined beautifully to make a certain accord. This is getting more interesting.
Yes those are somewhat missing aren't they? I would class those as gourmand too! And yes, a jasmine based around hedione is very light and airy 👍 I definitely think experimentation is the way to go with layering. For me, some combinations really work and others fall flat. I guess it might also be thinking about how much you spray of each one very carefully too! Thanks for watching 🥰
Great survey of this particular fragrance wheel. Ive seen others. Also, you mentioned Chypré and Fougeres in passing. I would have liked those two genres, in addition to the Citrus Aromatic, to be drawn out and discussed. Fougere is my favorite genre by far. I have tons of fougeres from the "barbershop"s to classic to hybrids. Im always policing the use of the term "fougere" on the Internet. Men are always misusing the label "fougere". A true fougere is characterized by a dominant lavender-coumarin accord. Identifying and describing the Chyore has always given me trouble. I know the textbook definition is citrus (usually bergamot) to, labdanum mid, oakmoss base. But so many fragrances outside that structure are called "chypre". Even Aventus is classified as a Fruity Chypre. Then I read an article that explained why Aventus is classified as a Chypre. It said its because of the CONTRAST between the citrus/fruity top and woody mid/base with the smoky birch. So it dawned on me that CONTRAST is what characterizes a Chypre. Now I can just kinda tell by smelling.
Yes absolutely! Chypre is really evolving, with patchouli sometimes instead of oakmoss! Modern chypres just seen to have that back of the throat dryness to their base. It's hard to explain but for me that's how I think of a chypre 😊 your idea of the contrast is probably a much better explanation 😂 thanks for watching 🥰
I have made full notes of this episode in word form. Very useful.
I hope it's useful 🥰
I do that as well. And then if they are long lasting I put two Capital LS
This was exactly what I was looking for! Thank you
Aah no worries! I'm happy that you found it useful 🥰
very quality content of the video, really enjoyed and helped to see where i can fit in the taste and the parfums that I owned,
Thank you ❤️ I'm happy that you found this useful ☺️
I want to join a fragrance company and before this I didn’t know anything about fragrance except sweet and oudy 😂
Very helpful informations ,thank you ❤
@@zhazgulsatarova4341 oh no worries! Best of luck! 🤞🍀 🥰
I find the fragrance wheel to be a fantastic thing if you are to categorize your collection. I did not that the gourmand category was missing. I am mostly into gourmand, oriental, woody and resinous kind of perfumes. The fruity perfumes are a guilty pleasure, I guess. Each year I do buy Escada Magnetism! I think that if you are looking for a very fun and easy fruity perfume, this fragrance is a good chose. I do enjoy the perfumes Escada brings out each year. However, recently they have become rather expensive, so I will not buy any this year - except for Magnetism. Nice to watch someone putting on the scientific "glasses" when talking about perfumes. I really learned a lot - and I can use it in the future.
Thank you! Yes I love the fruity fun ones, I've seen a few people say they love Magnetism, I've not tried it, but that's the pink/ purple tall bottle yes?! Oh and I know those summer ones used to be a bit cheaper, it's a shame really because I bet they sell fewer as a result, but I guess everything went up in price over the last few years. Thanks for watching ❤️
Great video, i would love to ask u for sorting these four perfumes to the categories u think theyre in (just wanna make sure i got the idea) - black icon, Clinique my happy peony picnic, olympea (rose one), and midnight fantasy by taylor swift (the navy blue one), thanks alot for the information!!
Thank you! I am sorry but I've never tried any of those fragrances so I would have to work off Fragrantica note profiles instead of my own experience of them, I would imagine your own categorisations would be more accurate because of this. Thanks for watching 🥰
I'm definitely on the ambery, woody, aromatic wheel sections - much less so on the freshy/ floral sections - though i do have some it's probably about 10 percent of my collection
I feel like my collection is much more spread across the wheel these days. I particularly have a lot of woody resinous scents now. Citrus, green and watery is probably the area I really lack though. 🥰
That's such an amazing and interesting video Claire ✨💕
Thank you! I thought it was something that I don't tend to think about much as I am always so focused on individual notes that I tend to forget the bigger picture, I guess this is the bigger picture! 🙂 Thanks for watching 🥰
I probably lean most towards fresh and woodys, and the softer florals. I think I like many categories but I don't go for more ambery fragrances as I do struggle with the more resinous or vanillic notes
Yes, I think I have an idea of what you enjoy but I'm not sure I can always predict with the florals... I also think your taste has changed slightly away from the really super fresh ones more to florals of late. It's interesting to see what happens as you try more fragrances, we are all really influenced by each others' choices too! Thanks for watching ❤️
@@dr.claire.perfume definitely! Florals I really enjoy a wide range except probably really strong notes like lily, ylang ylang, rose. But I generally like tuberose, lilac, violet, orange blossom/neroli, heliotrope, mimosa, hawthorn, magnolia, narcissus, jasmine, iris, freesia, honeysuckle, sweet pea... haha that's enough I could probably go on!
Yes! Ethereal florals for you! Forest florals, hedgerow florals and pixie florals ❤️
@@dr.claire.perfume aww I love that 🥰
What an interesting video😍
I had the original ysl opium as a little girl (got it as a gift😅 imagaine that🙈) so it is very nostalgic to me, but I can’t afford it now. Do you know of any scents that smell similar to it…? So Not the black opium (don’t like the black opium🙊) but the original ambery stuff 😍
I know Estée Lauder youth dew is often compared with Opium, but for me that is stronger (my stepmother wears it). I also know Cinnabar from Estée Lauder is compared with it too. But I didn't smell that. I know youth dew can be bought relatively cheaply but I'm not sure about the price of cinnabar. I hope that helps ☺️
@@dr.claire.perfume it helps, thank you very much🥰🤗
👍
Genius, thank you Claire!❤️💛🧡🩵💙💜
No worries! 🥰
Claire, I am fascinated by the subject of this video and I was wondering if u have the time...sometime.. to talk in a future video about the map of odors proposed by P. Jellinek. I read pretty much these days about it and I found it very interesting. He draw a map of odors based on their EFFECTS. He considered that there are 4 main types of odors: Erogenous vs. Antierogenous (refreshing) and Narcotic vs. Stimulating. This map was draw based by the impression the odors have on us (and I think also on animals). This is what I have understood from what I have learned. :)
I just read about a new study classifying fragrance notes so I will look into this too! Thanks for the information 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume very interesting.:) the one I told u is the first. 1951. from what I have read...I think the old studies are based on the role of the smell in nature, mostly sexual activity. That wasn t the smell ONLY role, but in perfumery I think they considered that important.
Aah ok, I will look into it. 🥰
Maybe they should make an additional fragrance wheel for the gourmands and whatever else doesn't fit the current wheel?
Or update the current wheel, but not sure where the gourmands etc would fit? Close to fruits, perhaps, without being part of 'fresh'?
But then again, I understand why fruits and florals are next to each other... hmmmm!
Yes fruity florals are definitely a thing! I'm not sure where I'd put gourmands... I feel like they should maybe go near spicy ambers, but it's not ideal or clear cut at all. I do think the wheel needs a rethink...
@@dr.claire.perfume Maybe you've planted the seed out there for a new wheel to be created!
I hope so 🤞
Yes I do and keep the wheel in mind 😊
Ooh do you have a general preference as to what you gravitate towards? Thanks for watching 🥰
Yea other than vanilla, Gourmands just weren't around before. I think they used to put Vanilla and that coffee in Black Opiun in the more spice category of ambers. Love me certain vintage ambers, florals & 1970's chypres. Give me that carnation & aldehyde, orange flower & sandalwood, iris, violet or vetiver any day of the week and twice on Sundays. Have a real soft spot for those 90's soft water, cucumber and lotus fragrances but wear them less often than back in the day. A good spritz of the relaunced BBW Juniper Breeze or White Citrus this year just brings me back. I'm in my early 40's and have a collection of 60 fragrances, mostly body sprays & lotions with just over a dozen actual perfumes. All time favorite is I think close to one you wouldn't like based off the Floris review of White Rose you gave. I love what I think my Great Grand Ma would have worn, Vintage L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci but I also have oily skin and probably a different body chemistry. It's what makes fragrance so unique and personal for all of us and so fascinating. Great vid and information. Thank you!
Gourmands seem very recent in perfume history for sure... I don't know what it is, but 90s fragrances are so distinctive to me, maybe the aquatic / green fresh feel of them.
I have florabotanica with carnation and I used to have eternity with carnation (I struggled with that one) but that's about it. It's not a note that I am that familiar with. In fact I was shocked when I smelt eternity because in supermarkets carnations just smell cool, they don't smell spicy and paper like, as they do in fragrance... Yes variety is the joy of perfume and people's tastes for sure. Thanks for watching ❤️
@@dr.claire.perfume You know, I can't remember the last time I smelled Eternity or Euphoria for that matter. Have to give it a sniff when I get the chance. Yes, that green in the supermarket carnation is what I love too. Thanks for your thoughts and work!
Good video. Thank you. Would not you put pleasures by Estee Lauder into the green category??
I think sometimes fragrances can be in more than one category, I don't own Pleasures, I've only tried it in store, so you are probably the better judge if you know this fragrance well. It's not about listed notes, it's about how it smells. If it's grassy to you with little florals then you should categorise it as green.
Thank a bunch teacher.❤
Thank you 🥰
Claire, i really appreciate the perspective you put out into the world. I remember your video on indoles where you pointed out how fragrances are specific to culture - in a lot of India jasmine is everyday and basic, even connected to prayer, and more grandma than sexy. Here i appreciate that you flagged the colonial word oriental. Said would be thrilled. Thank you for your content!
Yes, people frame how they talk about fragrance with their own social experiences. It's a huge problem not just in fragrance, but the world generally, that people fail to recognise other people's social experiences and culture.
I think you are the only person here who has actually agreed with me on the use of Oriental. I think since making this video, my opinion on the whole thing has hardened. I don't want to use it. Someone commented on my last video about why fragrances are discontinued that Guerlain had changed a fragrance name with the word Oriental in it and how they didn't see the issue and how their Chinese friends don't mind being called Oriental... I tried to point out the colonial, othering and social associations with the word to state my opinion on it. I think there are a lot of people who just think Oriental best describes that style but I disagree, it tells you nothing about what it actually is. Amber does that better. Thanks for watching 🥰
Can you do a video that walks you threw how to declutter your own perfumes. Like questions to ask yourself. ❤❤❤
I will add it to my list. Thank you for the suggestion ☺️
My favorite is woody, amber and a little bit of citrus.
Nice combination 😊 fresh but grounded and warm.
I don’t consider the fragrance wheel at all. But I do tend to choose Orientals the most.
A lovely choice, I have many fragrances that fall in that category. Thanks for watching 🥰
I've long ago realized that all of my favourite perfumes are described as floral ambers or florientals.
That's interesting that you gravitate towards that particular section of the wheel. I think I probably do too! 🥰
Floral/soft Amber s the perfect option
Tnks ❤
No problem, happy this was useful 🥰
I love florals and fresh (citrusy/aqueous) perfumes.
Mmm I love those categories for spring summer! Thanks for watching ❤️
For my childhood's sake, I bought Tabu by Dana. What would you categorize it as? I always thought as a child it was so strong.
I have never smelt it so I can't judge. I could look up the notes but that won't really allow me to accurately categorise it.
Wow amazing video❤
Thank you 🥰
Soo helpful!...thank you!
No problem. You might also like my perfume colours video if you've not already seen it, ruclips.net/video/TXCYYM-m5U0/видео.htmlsi=FV3HHCRQAbbhH7Md Thanks for watching ❤️
Such a informative video, thank you Claire! I don have a question though as it comes to layering . I actually not a 'layering' type of person, but sometimes when a perfume ends up not to be that perfect to me I tried to layer it to make it more pleasant. (mostly it didn't ;) ) To layer, do we have to pick "the opposite" on the wheel to make the outcome the best? Like the color wheel we use for hair?
I can't say I am a layering person most of the time either, but it depends what you want to achieve. I think I normally choose something with some notes already in the fragrance to amplify. So for example, I might add a green vanilla, or a woody vanilla to something with vanilla or sandalwood as a base but when I want that part of it to be more prominent. I might add a boozy fragrance to something with a smokey cherry. Or a jasmine fragrance to an amber. Of course you can try clashes too, but I think it's harder to achieve something that works (I can't say I've managed it so far, but I'm not the best at layering). For me it's hard to find an aquatic fragrance, a green fragrance or a citrus fragrance that isn't simply overwhelmed by the style of fragrance that is opposite it, which to me always feels "stronger", but perhaps I just don't have enough fragrances to experiment effectively 🤔
Have you tried Baiser Vole by Cartier? Thats a very powdery floral (the most powdery floral I've ever smelled) but there's only one note...Lily of the Valley.
Would that be floral, or soft floral.
I have tried it! It was a few years back in store. I remember it being a greener but full and realistic petally lily fragrance rather than LOTV. I would categorise it as floral as I don't remember it being powdery, but as I say, I haven't tried it extensively nor recently. 😊
Hi, Claire! I really enjoyed your video. I recently discovered your channel. I'm a big perfume enthusiast. I'm now studying graphic design but i decided to learn more about perfumes and smells. I want to work in this field. I don't know where to start. Do you have any recommendations for me? Like a book, a website, even an activity for me to explore and learn about perfumes? I will obviously watch all of your content. Thanks in advance!
I'd say join IG and just talk to some Indie perfumers. Having someone to ask about stuff is really useful, I think that by talking to smaller people on IG who aren't in it for the money or fame has really helped me to understand more about fragrance and the fragrance industry. Also don't believe anything you watch on YT or read on the net about fragrance without thinking for yourself about how much sense it makes. Always try to confirm info somewhere else, there's an awful lot of claptrap out there. I don't own any books on fragrance so I can't recommend any. If I want information on something I tend to do quite an exhaustive search rather than use one source, different sites are good for different topics. Sarah McCartney talks a lot of sense (4160 Tuesdays brand owner and perfumer), she's a good person to check out, she does videos too. 🥰
@ thank you very much❤️
I just found your video. Such a great explanation. Do you decide what category the fragrance belongs by the base notes? Also when you are layering do I take a fragrance note in that perfume and pick a top or middle note that I like and mix it with a fragrance that has that note as the base note?
Thank you ❤️ I think a lot of these categories are determined by base notes to a degree as that is the overall impression you are left with, but not entirely, citrus and florals are rarely if ever going to be found as base notes.
I think with layering, I pick a fragrance to layer that is relatively simplistic, for example, Alien or vanilla 28 or similar. Then I choose with a fragrance with those notes but maybe not as prominent as I would like, for example I might want more jasmine or more vanilla and mix. I might also add those fragrances to particular fragrances that I think those notes would compliment or lift. I think my most successful layering is where I've layered fragrances with a few notes in common though! Hope that helps. ❤️ thanks for watching 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume Thank you so much. Love how informative you are on this subject. Thank you for sharing.
No worries 😊
This was helpful but sad for me. The fresh, light florals don't agree with me, but I noticed the last notes smell good. I think cedarwood? Maybe I can find a perfume with that in the first or heart?
I think if you are having issues with some fragrances, you will have to assess them on case basis. In my experience, light florals are a category of fragrance that are not done well by cheaper and ever some designer brands, gourmand on the other hand is easier to do more cheaply, same with woody fragrances. I would stay away from amberwood (a trademarked synthetic) fragrances and things with oakmoss (again this is normally synthetic these days rather than oakmoss as pure oakmoss extract is banned or heavily restricted) as you might find those too metallic, e..g I don't think Chloe nomade would be one for you.
@@dr.claire.perfume Ahh, Ok. I took a photo of your message when I go perfume shopping to remember.....
Good luck 🤞 let me know if you find something you love 😘
I am a forever freshie except for the heavy citruses ❤
I totally understand that! It must also suit the climate! Thanks for watching ❤️
I’ve seen another version of this wheel that uses Oriental instead of Amber. And this kinda remedies the original omission of gourmands.
Oriental subcategories:
Soft oriental: incense, resin
Oriental: vanilla, cinnamon, chocolate
Oriental Wood: patchouli, sandalwood
I feel like this works betters as Amber gives the impression of solely amber, musk, resin scents. While Oriental fits nicely in between the subcategories of Soft Oriental > Oriental Floral and Woods into Oriental Woods.
In my videos as well as with my teaching as a lecturer, I try to decolonise how I approach subjects and this includes removing the term Oriental in how I discuss fragrance, which is solely used in perfumery as a result of our colonial past. If you web search the "Oriental" fragrance family, you will find that "amber" is the alternative term, referring to exactly the same fragrance family as Oriental. I agree that people think of the amber accord, but that can be made with styrax, benzoin, other resins, patchouli and vanilla, and so I guess these do actually cover the entire family.
In realtion to Oriental, a few brands, for example Olfactive O and Dossier, have removed the term Oriental from their fragrances names because it is now considered controversial to use the term, e.g. Dossier Oriental Cherry is now Ambery cherry, Olfactive O Oriental is now Amber.
I think I'd always associated chocolate with patchouli because of Angel and other patchouli fragrances, so it makes sense for chocolate to be grouped here. I am unsure where other gourmand notes might sit though. They might be better placed at other parts of the wheel, for example, milk might fit alongside sandalwood.
Thanks for watching 🥰
the fragrance so beautiful
Thanks for watching 🥰
I have a lot of allergies, so I have problems with many perfumes. It would be helpful if I could find a commonality between the fragrances I'm allergic to, so I could find a fragrance I can tolerate.
The problem is that perfumes aren't required to label their ingredients, so making comparisons is tricky..... ESPECIALLY when smelling them to see, frequently triggers an asthma or COPD attack.
I KNOW I'm allergic to Sandalwood, but not to Vanilla, Baby Powder or Lavender, beyond that, I'm lost.
I used to wear Avon's Pearls and Lace all the time, but they discontinued it years ago. I USED to be able to wear Blue Waltz, but I've recently discovered I'm alergic to THAT now too.
I know I' m allergic to Red Door, Imari, Channel #5, and almost all of what they used to call "Oriental" perfumes. I'm pretty much at a loss trying to figure out what's safe and what will cause me problems. Even finding a deodorant I can tolerate is proving problematic now that the only formulation that doesn't cause me hives has discontinued their powder fragrance. (Allergies SUCK!)
Any Ideas or enlightenment you might have for me would help tremendously. But either way, thanks for letting me vent, as you can imagine, it can be frustrating sometimes. Thanks again.
That's very annoying and yes, in a world where any Tom Dick or Harry can just use GCMS to uncover a composition, why not just label the ingredients in full?!
I was thinking about this and you could perhaps look at GCMS formulae that have been published for the fragrances that you've mentioned and see what overlaps. You would need an Excel spreadsheet with different columns for this. The problem is that some chemicals are called different names, but still it might help. It's likely the only way to know for sure what you are sensitive to. E.g. saying you think you might be sensitive to sandalwood, that could be a number of different aromachemicals, so making this kind of list for fragrances you can't tolerate and another list for ones that you can might be useful. Best of luck 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume Thanks for your help, at least I have a possible starting point now.
@@juliebaker6969 👍
It is useful, at least initially, to know as many ingredients and aromatic families as possible. At least for me, it was a guide to study more technically, those aromas that I liked and that led me to buy a perfume. I believe that for those who call themselves perfumery enthusiasts, it is essential to know and study the fragrance wheel.
Ordinary people say: "it smells good", "it's citrus", "it's sweet". Epithets like those are useful and correct up to a point. Making an analogy with poetry, where there is a large number of words and linguistic ornaments, in perfumery there is also an abundance of resources to make the olfactory experience richer in terms of definition and comparison of fragrances.
Today, perfumery has become quite an eclectic industry. New fragrances appear periodically and challenge the structure of the fragrance wheel. Houses like "Akro" and "Strangers Perfumerie" are some examples, where the combination of certain ingredients does not fit directly into any category, where the construction of the perfume goes in order to recreate a situation or thing, which can escape being placed in certain aromatic family and work from there to create a fragrance.
Finally, it is also interesting how tastes change over time and the olfactory experience. At first I only liked aromatic citrus fragrances, which were typecast within the typical Italian colognes that tried to portray the mediterranean with the use of herbs, light woods and abundant citrus. Nowadays, I like oriental fragrances, with the use of resins and woods like oud. I have quite dense fragrances that at first I did not think I would use.
Sooo... Has your taste in fragrances changed over time? Maybe a topic for new video.
Too much text. Bye.
I certainly agree that there are more recently formulated fragrances that don't seem to fit any category particularly well. Perfumery has moved on and the fragrance wheel hasn't even got to gourmands 🤷♀️
Yes for sure my taste has changed! I did make a video about it a year or so back but I might make another, thanks for the suggestion and for your interesting comment. 😊